Have you noticed all of these ads for Hydroquinone in your Facebook and Instagram feed lately?  We were thunderstruck when we saw that you could buy HQ through a "tele-derm" portal.  We totally understand the convenience factor of a service like this, but it would personally make us nervous to get an Rx without a face to face doctor visit.  When it comes to matters of the face, we are very risk averse here at SKIN AT WORK.

Let’s face it, the ingredient decks on packaging can be a very confusing place.  The government requires brands to disclose every ingredient to you on the packaging but who's really got the time to sit down and google every single one!  That said, staying critical of the labels on products and understanding the ingredients in formulas is important.  The right ingredients will repair, brighten, moisturize, and balance your skin.  On the other hand, the wrong ingredients can cause irritation, dryness, clogged pores and in some cases allergic reactions depending on the person.

Being transparent about ingredients is important to us here at SKIN AT WORK. Today we take a closer look at Hydroquinone – its uses, effects, and risks.  Our hope is that providing you this information will help you feel more confident in the products that you’re buying and putting on your skin.

What is Hydroquinone?

Hydroquinone is an ingredient commonly found in skin care products to help lighten the discoloration of your skin. While it’s not legal to purchase over the counter in the U.S, dermatologists still prescribe it to help treat hyperpigmentation, remove dark spots and treat things like melasma and post acne scarring.

The effectiveness of Hydroquinone stems from its ability to limit your skin’s production of melanin (the pigment responsible for skin color).  When applied topically, it sends a message down to the cells which are producing the discoloration and says, “Hey cell down there! Stop producing darker pigment please.”  And so the cells being formed, begin to comply.  As your skin cycles, less pigmented cells rise to the top.

Over time, the skin begins to even out and the appearance of the brown spot is diminished.  But here’s the rub, current technology requires you to continue using the cream or serum to keep the skin tone as even as possible, so you want to choose products that do not build up in your system over time.

Unwanted Consequences

Hydroquinone is useful for targeting hyperpigmentation.  However, it should always be used with caution as there exists a high risk of accompanying negative effects.  This is why the Food and Drug Administration has not approved it for over the counter use.  The Mayo Clinic reported incidences of patients who experienced the following side effects after applying it to their skin:

• Rashes
• Skin Discoloration
• Redness
• Burning/Irritation
• Facial Swelling

Many studies have also reported “halo-ing.”  This is where the skin around the age spot actually gets lighter at the same time. This creates a light ring which emphasizes the dark spot making the appearance worse, not better.  Another downside is it cannot be used by pregnant women or women who are breastfeeding.

Despite these potential risks, Hydroquinone remains an option for dermatologists to prescribe to patients.  Luckily, safer and more beneficial alternatives exist that target hyperpigmentation while avoiding harsh side effects.

Safer Alternatives

Niacinamide

5% Niacinamide is an effective replacement for Hydroquinone.  Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3, an essential vitamin for maintaining your skin’s level of keratin.  Keratin serves as a barrier on the outer layer of your skin, helping prevent damage while retaining your skin's moisture. Regular use of even just a small amount of Niacinamide promotes healthy skin while creating a smooth texture and radiant complexion.  We have studied and prefer 5%.  You may see 10% out there and if you dive into the reviews, you will also note that many people experience purging with that concentration.  5% will do the same job with less risk!

Using products with Niacinamide have a lot of benefits. It helps moisturize, hydrate, visibly calm redness, regulate the amount of oil on your skin to promote fewer breakouts, even tone and visibly diminish age spots over time.  Additionally, it helps combat unwanted effects of aging like wrinkles and fine lines by improving your skin's elasticity.  It’s like a daily skin workout.

We’re proud to say our PROTAGONIST: An All-In-One Hero Brightening Serumoisturizer is formulated with 5% Niacinamide to help revive and strengthen your skin. 

Tranexamic Acid

5% Tranexamic Acid is also a potent replacement for Hydroquinone and is considered by many to be quite a breakthrough.  Scientific evidence has shown how effective it is in treating hyperpigmentation and balancing out your skin tone without any known side effects.

Tranexamic Acid targets brown spots and redness on your face, contributing to a more uniform complexion.  For those with sensitive skin, you’ll be happy to know, it works similarly to Hydroquinone by sending a message down to the pigmented cell, but without making your skin visibly angry in the process!  Hello, that’s a no brainer isn’t it?

The NIH reported a study in which researchers found using 5% Tranexamic Acid in formulas is just as effective as 3% Hydroquinone. THE TIME KEEPER is an All-In-One Lipid Volumizing Concentrated Repair Cream that uses 5% of Tranexamic Acid to help restore your skin's radiance while preventing further damage.

One Step Closer to the Results You Want

We want you to know that we respect the investment you’re making in your skin’s health.  It’s important to us that you wake up not only looking your best but feeling it.  Using the suggested ingredients in place of Hydroquinone will result in smoother, brighter, and younger looking skin while avoiding any irritation and discomfort.

Don’t choose products and ingredients just because they’re trendy or have a big marketing budget.  Choose products because you know the ingredients in them are shown to be safe, effective, and suitable for your skin.  Understanding the potential side effects of skincare ingredients will help you make an informed decision that will truly benefit your skin in the long run.

Here's to your best skin!